rapido y buena calidad 👍

Product installed without issue. Truck now sits a little taller in front, should have just gone with a 2" spacer. Need to put a 1/2" or so block in the back to even out.

Excellent quality easy installation

Well made, as described arrived on time AAA+++

Exelente Calidad … lo único mal es que describe en la descripción que mide 1 pulgada el cual mide 1 1/4 pulgada… lo cual levanta poco más de 2 pulgadas… si realmente midiera 1 pulgada si levantaría las 2 pulgadas como lo describe de ahí en más todo muy bien

Should've went with thr 2inch instead as the nose of the Expedition is slightly higher than hoped for

The product seems to be good quality and better than competitors (metal vs plastic) hope they will last the life of the truck

I had a local shop install these for me. They reported a perfect fit and I had no issues with any sensors after installation. The truck now doesn't look like its been mashed down on the front. This thickness still gives you about an inch of offset so small trailers won't sag the back end down. Going above 2" will likely required new upper A arms due to the angle change in suspension geometry. FYI, I paid $450, including the alignment, to have mine installed. NOT AT THE STEALERSHIP!An alignment is REQUIRED after installation as you are changing the geometry of the suspension slightly. It'll drive fine but you'll wear tires faster and unevenly without the alignment

Ford f150 2013 fx4 5.0l

It seems to be simple but it took about 6 hours and that’s with most of the right tools but on the ground on jacks. But if you’re determined, I would say it’s well worth the money

This is a very nice level kit for the money. Made my F150 look very nice and gave nice clearance for the bigger tires we added.

Easy install , make sure the tapered rear blocks go in the right direction ! You want the thinner tapered end facing the front of the truck both blocks face forward so that the driveshaft does not bind and vibrate at low speeds . On the front you have to turn the whole strut around “flip” them to line up and bolt in after you install the spacers. Looks great and no more rubbing my tires up front .

Purchased the front strut spacers for 1.5" of lift and installed on my 2018 F150 3.5EB Crew Cab 5.5' Box Lariat FX4 ~40,000 miles. Had a bad IWE actuator, so it was somewhat convenient to tackle both the spacer install and hub replacement at the same time, nearly all of the same suspension components need to come apart to do these jobs.The spacer kit is very nice. The spacers themselves are nicely machined aluminum and anodized black. They seem like they should hold up well. I discarded some of the hardware that came in the kit, sometimes the hardware that comes from overseas is poor quality. Did this just to be safe. I used the socket head screws but sourced my own stainless flat washers for them. Then for the 3 nuts that go back on the top of the strut tower on the frame of the truck, I re-used the factory nuts, they are nice large flange locknuts. I used my stainless washers and locally sourced nylock nuts to fasten the spacers to the strut assemblies.Tip #1 - due to the 3 bolt pattern on the spacer and strut plate, you need to rotate the strut plate 180 degrees on the strut assembly. I put the lower part of the strut in a vice and used a pry bar spanning 2 of the 3 studs on the strut plate to apply torque to the strut plate to spin it. I spun in the wrong direction and the spring started to climb out of its ramp pocket. Give a little WD40 spray around the lower spring retainer, and spin in the direction that it does not try to climb the ramp on the retainer.Tip #2 - on my install (1.5" of finished lift), the thickness of the spacer is a bit less than the length of the studs on the factory strut plate. If left untouched, the spacer may not properly sit in the strut tower in the frame. The strut plate studs protrude slightly above the top surface of the spacer. I ground down the strut plate studs and filed the edges of the threads, to avoid any issues.Tip #3 - my factory struts have pressed in lower bolts where the bottom of the shock mounts to the lower control arm. That makes the overall strut assembly "longer", meaning the lower control arm needs to be pried down further to fit the longer strut assembly back into the chassis. Since I was also doing the IWE hub replacement, 2 things made it a lot easier to pivot the control arm down lower. First, having the CV axle removed from the front hub, so you aren't fighting trying to "stretch" the CV axle as you pry down the lower control arm. Second, I removed 1 nut (on each side of the truck) from the stabilizer bar link, to disconnect the stabilizer bar from the lower control arm. This then allowed the lower control arm to be easily pried low enough to install the strut assembly.Overall very nice product, good install. On the 1.5" lift version, at full suspension droop, there is very little clearance, maybe even just a bit of light contact between the coil spring and the inside of the upper control arm. I do not off-road so it is very unlikely that my suspension goes to full droop. The truck needed a minor alignment after the install. No noticeable change in ride, after all, the same shocks and springs are carrying the same load. Headlights needed roughly 2 clicks of adjustment down to shine in the same spot on my garage door at 25 feet away. Most of the rake is now removed from my truck, instead of the front being ~2" lower, it is roughly 1/2" lower. No noticeable change in highway fuel economy (air flow over and under truck might have been altered and could potentially affect mileage).