Dorman 917-551 Manual Transmission Shift Re-Build Kit Compatible with Select Ford / Mazda / Mercury Models (OE FIX)

I rarely feel compelled to write reviews but this made such a difference on how my ford ranger 2002 feels. Shifting was so sloppy before now feels like i got a new transmission

Makes it feel new again

Watch the you tube video for your year ranger and 1/2hour later you are done. Fixed all the slop in the shifter lever.

Se ajustó perfectamente a la transmisión manual de mi Ford Ranger 1993

Purchased this to replace factory bushings. Turns out, there factory bushings either were never installed or had evaporated into thin air. Truck oddly enough still had a spring washer AND a flat washer, while the kit only came with a spring washer. Reusing the original flat washer caused the assembly to be so tight that the shifter could not return to a “centered” position when leaving gear.Only use the supplied spring washer and lubricate the bushings with your transmission fluid of choice before reassembly, or there will be excess stiction in the shifter.

fit and worked great.

Fits Mazda B3000 5sp. Helped to tighten up worn loose shifter in cab. Many vids out there to help with install, but install instructions are also included. Can be completed in half an hour. Good product excellent value.

Se acopló muy bien muy exacto

This work for 2011 Ford ranger! Great price too. Not easy . But it ok. You need a shop tool to take out the pins. Do not damage trany top or you have to replace the trany. Ask the shop to help you . Directions suck. But a good product. Do not hit pins with a punch and Hammer. You Crack the aluminum.!

Tenia dudas al principio de realizar la compra ya que las imagenes lucian muy diferentes a mis piezas a remplazar, pero una vez que recibi el kit simplemente me sorprendi gratamente y sobre todo lo sencillo y practico de instalar. Aunque las instrucciones vienen en ingles la ayudas visuales te van guiando para ejecutar el trabajo de manera sencilla.

I bought this product for a 1992 Ford Ranger that I bought over the weekend. The shifter was pretty loose and I found this product as a solution as I was digging around online. I had a hard time finding if this specific product would fit on my truck (I am sure it is an easy find for most) but thought I would give it a shot anyway, per the customer reviews for similar models/years.After watching a few YouTube videos, I went at it last night. The only thing I had to run to the store to buy was one of those star bits that are used to take off the three screws at the top of the shifter casing. Went to Auto Zone and was able to buy a whole set for about fifteen bucks.Overall, it only took 5-10 minutes once I had all of the parts. I wasn't able to get the pins out, so I just folded up the bottom bushing and pushed it below the pins before dropping the shifter part back in. The pins seemed to still have enough life in them and, once I put it all back together, it made the difference I was looking for. With the reviews of the new pins not fitting well anyway, it wasn't worth the hassle of loosening them up to just put the old ones back in again. I will say that the bottom bushing did have some play between the bottom and the pins... It didn't sit as snug as I was thinking it would. There WERE two metal spacers that came out of it so I may go back in and add them to the bottom at some point.One other thing is that there was another random, black circular piece that I wasn't sure what to do with. On the videos I saw, the other kits didn't come with it. And the instructions literally just said something like "add this piece" and didn't say where or have a photo of where to put it (lol hmmm helpful)... So, I just have it stashed with the parts that I replaced in case I figure that out.Long story, long... I would buy this product again! Seems to be working well and is worth it for the price. Took it for a drive last night with the pup in the front seat with me. She seems pleased as well.

I purchased this for my 1993 F150. It has a 5 speed manual transmission, and over time, it got sloppy with lots of movement in the shifter. It's a slow degradation, so it's not drastic enough to get in the truck one day and go "Wow, this is bad". Enter this rebuild kit. This kit addresses all the problems with a sloppy shifter. Basically, there are nylon bushings above and below the shifter stub. The shifter stub is attached at the top to the shifter handle and below, movement in the shifter handle moves the stub to change gears in the transmission. The nylon bushing degrade over time and this is why the shifter handle feels like there's a lot of excess movement.The replacement procedure is quite simple. This is very important in order to make the change easier. Put the parking brake on, chock the wheels and put the transmission in neutral. Take off the rubber boot at the base of the shifter. Mine was held on with 4 screws. Lift the boot and rubber plate under it to gain access to the top of the transmission.A wedge type bolt along with a 17 mm nut holds the shifter handle to the shifter stub. Loosen the nut and remove completely. Install the nut on the other side of the bolt and tighten. The tightening action will draw out the wedge type bolt. Once loosened enough you can either tap out the bolt with a small ball peen hammer or use a pair of channel locks to push out the bolt. Just place one end of the channel locks on the end of the bolt on the 1st side (the one where you loosened the nut) and the other end of the channel locks on the other side of the shift lever body and squeeze. Note the bolt's orientation upon removal.Remove the shifter handle. Notice the large, flat groove near the top of the shifter stub. Note its position, as this is the groove where the wedge bolt rides to hold the shifter handle captive on the stub. Remove the 3 torx screws holding the cap in place.You should see a compression / wavy washer and the top of one of the bushings. If the parts aren't all broken up, you can just pull out the shifter stub and the washer and bushing will come out with it. The lower bushing is held captive by two pins in the 3 and 9 o'clock positions. Use whatever you need to punch these out. A small hammer and a drift punch works well. Just make sure you don't scratch or gouge the area in which the bushing will rest. Remove the lower bushing and compression / wavy washer (if present) once the pins are out of the way.Installation is the reverse of removal. A small amount of a light grease can be put on the bushings. I used a silicone based grease to reduce the hardening some greases exhibit in cold weather. An item of not is the bushing kit may come with 2 compression washers. Some folks use both, usually 1 at the bottom under the lower bushing and 1 at the top over the upper bushing, in an effort to tighten then shift feel even more. The Dorman kit comes only with 1 washer, and this was sufficient for me. The re-install directions that follow account for only 1 washer.Drop the lower bushing in place and align the cutouts to the area where the pins will protrude. Push the pins into place, install the shifter stub in the proper orientation (it should drop easily drop into place if the transmission is in neutral), install the upper bushing again aligning the cutouts to the pins, install the compression washer and finally the cap. Install the shifter handle, insert the wedge bolt to hold it captive, tighten down the nut, install the rubber plate and boot and you're done.

Kit only includes one wave-spring washer, but it seems there are supposed to be two, one on the very bottom and one on top. Also the original wave washers have three tabs to hold them on the plastic bushings, which the new one doesn't. This is a bit of a hassle since the new washer has nothing to hold it in place if installed on top per instructions.I ended up reusing an original washer on top (fortunately one of them was still intact) and the new one on bottom. All that said, I reassembled it both ways and it doesn't make a massive difference. Certainly not compared to having destroyed/missing bushings.Otherwise, the parts seem fine and I got them in two days with Prime. There's pretty much no reason not to do this job, it's cheap and should take less than an hour even if you have no idea what you're doing. Once you know how it's more like a 10-15 minute job. Note this might also be a good time to change your gear oil since you can just pour the new fluid in through the shifter while it's apart.