Il ont fait très bien

C'est ok pour Yaris 2008 mais déjà inclus a ec le manifold .Retour sans problème

Works as intended

Worked perfectly on my 2006 Lexus GX470. Right length/pitch/size. No complaints about this hardware for the price.

Fits perfect and excellent quality. Thank you!

I just install for my 2008 sienna with the gasket . The noise is gone. Thanks

My 2011 Toyota Yaris (hatchback, manual transmission) started making a raspy sound under acceleration, which grew louder over time, and internet searches indicated the donut gasket might need replacing (turned out to be true). The replacement gasket I purchased was the "MAHLE Original F31661 Exhaust Pipe Flange Gasket" for $10.59 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007DKPH12). It shipped quicker than estimated and fit well.The original 15mm bolts on either side of the gasket (where the exhaust manifold leaves the back of the engine and starts heading down into the exhaust pipe under the car) were very rusty and held on by 13mm nuts that were also very rusty, so I opted to replace everything while I was replacing the gasket. I used a bolt extractor kit from Harbor Freight Tools ($36) to get purchase on the rusty bolts. At the time of purchase, this Dorman bolt set was $8.32 which was way cheaper than any OEM option I could find online.WORD OF CAUTION: the gasket replacement project was NOT one I could do myself in my driveway, even on ramps. I tried. After 1.5 hrs I got off one of the two bolts and was able to yank out the old gasket while prying the gap open with a crow bar, but then had to admit defeat and take it to my mechanic to do the rest. His profuse cursing while I looked on made me feel slightly better about my failure to complete the job, haha. There is one particular nut on the top back side of the flange that is nearly impossible to get a good wrench hold on (even with fancy bent/folding wrenches), therefore impossible to remove non-destructively. He ended up cutting the bolt off using a Sawzall.The first attached photo is a "before" photo, and the nut I'm talking about is on the bottom right side of the photo behind that angled bracket. (In the photo, I'm laying on my back looking up, with the top of the photo pointing toward the rear of the car, and engine bay toward the bottom of photo). I will try to remember to add a second photo later once I have a chance to photograph the "after" view.After removing the second bolt, he noticed that the flange holes (on the engine side) were threaded, and the threads were not stripped, but they were very rusty, so he re-tapped them (using M10-1.25 tap) to clean them out before inserting the new bolts from this Dorman kit. He used a manual wrench (socket) to do the tapping so he could feel the resistance and not overdo it with a power tool. He also slathered anti-seize all over the new bolt threads before inserting them ("always use anti-seize, especially on anything exhaust-related"). With the freshly re-tapped threads and the anti-seize, the new bolts went in like butter and held firm.I asked if he thought it was necessary to add a nut on the back side just as extra insurance, and he said no, he thought the threads were strong and it would stay put. Driving it home, it sounded like a new car, purring quietly again, so I think he was right. Time will tell. One thing's for sure, doing it this way will make future bolt removal MUCH easier, since the bottom bolt heads are relatively easy to access and remove, and there will be no top nuts to wrestle with.TLDR: These are compatible with 2011 Yaris, no nuts required, but if you have rusty threads you may want to clean them out before installing the new bolts.

I didn't put them on yet but I know there the right part,s✔️

Used on a 2009 Toyota Venza. Had to buy nuts, and lock washers separately. Install was easy and price was the lowest I found.

2004 Toyota Corolla 1ZZ-FE Engine, VIN# Starts with #2These are for the Manifold to the Exhaust Pipe on this car model.A must when replacing the Exhaust Pipe Gasket job, why because the old springs "my 20-year-old car" even if they look great or like new the springs lost their COMPRESSIVE STRENGHT, then as it happened to me in 6 or 7 months of normal use the new exhaust pipe gasket will be prematurely worn because due to the old spring did not do the correct job to help seal the gasket the correct way.It happened to me and learned the hard way by me being cheap and doing this job twice.Get this bolt and spring Kit and do the job the correct way.

As another reviewer noted, the unthreaded tips and long threads make these exhaust bolts easy to install. You can engage the threads before the springs start to compress. Worked great on my 2006 Scion xB 1.5L.

Good quality. But was wrong thread size for my car i had to redrill and tap for the larger size. Not a fit for a 2000 echo. With 99 build date.

OEM fitment. Some other exhaust flange hardware does not use the OEM threading on the manifold, but a separate nut that you have to thread on while fighting the spring tension which makes them a bear to install! These screw right into the threading in the manifold. These also cost a quarter as much as new bolts from the dealer.I drive hard and so I generally need to replace my exhaust donut about once every 12 months/30,000 miles on my 2005 Scion xB. I also have to replace the bolts every time as well, because the threads literally rust off. It doesn't matter if I buy Dorman or OEM at the dealer, it's just a fact of life. Anti-seize is a MUST here in the rust belt if you ever hope to get them out again.I recently replaced the donut on my room mate's 12 year old xB and I ended up hammering a 12mm socket over the remaining nubs on the OEM bolts, heating them up with a map gas torch for almost 15 minutes, but they eventually came out.