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The color was fading so I polished with a good compound and omg my work truck now it's my daily

The motor was overheating after a short period of time. They sent an extra set of brushes which tells you you’re going to have trouble down the line.

Su tamaño es mediano y manejable , pero dura mucho tiempo trabajando sin calentar tanto

There weren't many reviews when I bought it, but most were fairly positive. So, I gave it a try. Out of the box it looked & felt solid and well built. To try it out, I attached only the faux wool buffing pad and used it on my ultra smooth, shiny quartz kitchen countertop. There should be absolutely no drag with this combo. Unfortunately, using anything under level 3 on the speed dial and without applying any pressure caused the plate/pad to almost completely stop turning. It would stop completely with just the weight of the machine or with a tiny amount of pressure applied. I could stop it using one finger with just a little pressure on the edge of the pad. When it did turn, it wanted to jump/chatter way too much. This would be useless for normal polishing/buffing on a car except maybe at the highest speed. But even then, I would be afraid of damaging the car finish. I returned it immediately and will try another brand, but will pick one with hundreds or thousands of reviews rather than a couple dozen. I can't recommend this brand/model at all. Oh, by the way, when I run into issues with my purchases, I always give the manufacturer an opportunity to respond and help resolve the issue. I reached out to the manufacturer but got absolutely no response. That tells me something about their customer service.

Worked good, easy to use.

This does a great job on my black tacoma. Get out swirl marks and used it on some pretty deep scratches. Worked well.

This is a great tool for beginners and experienced car enthusiasts. About the DA polisher/buffer, the DA stands for dual action, meaning that the tool will not only spin the pad but also has an oribital motion. DA's can be short throws or long throws; this one is a short throw, which is more ideal for beginners.Unboxing: The tool comes with just about everything that you will need to start doing paint correction. From multiple pads to replacement carbon brushes. You'll just need an extension cord, compound/polish, and good old-fashioned elbow grease.Quality: To be fair, this is a very common model. You can find very similar ones at Harbor Freight and online, labeled with different brands and color schemes. Overall, for the price and accessories included with this one, I'm pleased with my purchase.Pros: A tried-and-true design at a great price. A perfect "starter pack" for anyone wanting to give detailing a try.Cons: I don't like the power switch; it just feels a little cheap and possibly a point of failure for the tool's durability. The additional side handle is very thin and light, so it tends to vibrate too much. However, it is great for an extra spot to grip the tool when it's not in use. I personally just held the tool by the top grip when using it, and I can confirm that it had little to no vibration.Overall, I gave this tool five stars! It will get the job done on a budget and comes with plenty of extras.*This concludes the review of the tool. I will now give some instructions on paint correction that I personally use.So before you begin, I highly encourage you to watch a couple of different videos on paint correction. This should give you a foundation to build on.When it comes to paint correction, you have to put in the time and have the correct technique to achieve great results. Even then, there are some things that you will not be able to correct. However, this is a crucial step for restoring a car's lost shine and being able to properly apply a sealant. This is the "prep work" of a great finish and a job well done. I decided it was time to do this on my truck. I do try to wash and wax regularly; however, after over five years of being exposed to the elements, the paint needed some work.1: WASH YOUR CARYou want the surface to be clean. I personally used CG (Chemical Guys) clean slate soap. The soap is intended to help remove any wax and sealants. (You can also use dishwashing soap) Basically, you don't want to use any soaps that have wax or gloss enhancers. (The photo of my truck’s hood is after washing; if you look near the sun's reflection, you will see light scratches, swirls, and cloudiness from oxidation)2: CLAY BARGet your favorite clay bar and clay your paint and glass. Periodically fold the clay over and knead it to get a clean, fresh side. Use a clay bar lube to make the job easier. Do small sections at a time, and wipe off excess product with a microfiber towel when complete. You will feel the surface become smoother when done correctly.3: PAINT CORRECTIONThis is when you're going to use your buffer, compound, and that proverbial elbow grease. Keep in mind that the machine, pad, and compound should do the work, meaning that you don't have to apply much pressure. Depending on the condition of your paint, you may need a heavier cutting pad with a compound or a light finishing pad with a polish. I personally used the black finishing pad, CG VSS, and CG pad conditioner. It's for light scratches and swirls. I'd recommend following the directions on the compound/polish that you're using. I applied the polish with the buffer on speed 1 and then polished on speed 4.5. The buffer will vibrate more at low speed; this is normal. Be sure to keep the buffer moving as you're working. You want to work in a # pattern, making slow, consistent passes over the paint. Remember to let the tool, pad, and compound for the job do the work because you can always work on an area again. However, if you buff for too long in one spot and/or apply too much pressure, you can remove too much of your clearcoat and damage your paint. Simply clean off the area with a microfiber cloth, and you're done with this step! It's smooth sailing from here.4: SURFACE PREPI personally used CG Wipe Out, but you can also use a 50/50 mixture of isopropyl alcohol and water (preferably distilled) in a spray bottle. This is the final prepping step to ensure no leftover contaminants from the prior steps are left on the paint. Simply spray generously and wipe off with a microfiber towel.5: APPLY A SEALANT (optional)This is an extra step to truly protect your paint and ensure that all of your hard work lasts longer. I used Nano Bond ceramic coating (I saw a video where a guy in TX tested several different coatings on a hood, and Nano Bond did very well for its surprisingly low price point). Obviously, follow the directions on the product that you decide to use. For the ceramic sealant that I chose, I applied a few drops to an applicator pad, working on small sections at a time. Use the # pattern to ensure even coverage. I allowed it to sit on the paint for two minutes, then used a microfiber towel to buff it off. I used two different towels, the first to remove the product and the second to buff it to a shine.6: WAXSo even if you did step 5, this is still a great step to really bring out your car's shine. Also, you can skip this step if you did step 5, or just repeat step 5 as desired. I personally only applied one coat of the ceramic coating to my truck's glass and paint. I then used CG ceramic hyperwax. I applied it very similarly to the ceramic coating directions in step 5. Feel free to use whatever your favorite wax or ceramic product is.7: MAINTAINThis is a simple step; just be sure to wash your car regularly with wax or ceramic soap to help maintain the finish. Also, use a wax or ceramic detailer from time to time to help extend the duration between waxes.Conclusion: This will be a lot of work, but it can be a very rewarding process. Be sure to do your own research and just go for it!

This is the perfect tool I can adjust the speed and the instructions gives u the information u need as a beginner to do the job