After 12 years one of my key fob’s battery for my 2013 civic si finally died (shoutout to Panasonic). The screw holding the fob cover together had blue loctite so me having little patience cracked the 12 year old plastic on both the top and bottom cover. The top of the cover is molded to the metal key so if you want to go oem a whole new blank is needed. If you break the bottom you can get a replacement from Honda for like $12 part #35114-TR0-A01. I didn’t want to buy a blank for $60 and then pay to have it cut. This was a perfect solution and extremely easy to use. Hardest part was lining up the holes takes a bit of muscle. Definitely recommend.

Fit perfect on a Honda civic!

The keyfob on my 2012 Honda Accord was cracked on the front between some of the buttons and around the right side. When you put it in the ignition to start the car and turned it, the whole case would flex, and it felt like it was about to snap apart, so I purchased this.When I received this, I took the screw out and pried off the back of the shell, and pulled the button/transmitter part out of the front. I do not have the transponder chip, so I didn't have to worry about that.The first problem I had was that the metal key part seemed to be molded into the base of the front piece, and I debated on continuing. After thinking about this for a while, I decided to go for it and pry out the key by holding the top and prying the key part up and down with some force. After doing this for a bit, the top of the key (the T part) popped right out.I cleaned up the key and the button/transmitter. I slid the key into the key holder plastic part (the smallest plastic part). When I got to the top of the key, it was a little difficult to get the key to seat properly into this. I got a straight screwdriver and pushed down on the top of the key while holding the plastic part. Note: The screw hole on one side was at the top of the hole, and not in the middle like I expected.The second problem I had was putting the key part into the shell. It fits fine into the front, but the back would not snap on. I took it apart and looked at it again and realized there were two notches in the back of the case where the key holder goes with two corresponding notches on the key holder. So, I put the key holder part into the back, slid it down onto the notches, and then I was able to close the front onto the back, and I put the screw in.It seems to be solid, and it works well.

Sirvió perfecto y no requerí llevarlo con un experto. Un excelente precio en comparación con otros lugares en los que los busque.

Got this for a 2005 Accord key where the plastic around the metal blade had started to crack badly. I expected this to be a very quick install, but it ended up being a lot more involved than I expected. Not surprisingly, the instructions are very limited - here are some things I found that I hope you may find useful.1) Your old metal blade may be very hard to remove from the old key housing. In my case, since it was already cracking around it, I was able to snap it out, but if the housing wasn't damaged around the blade you may need to use side cutters to cut the plastic off around it. Trying to lever the key out of the housing may result in bending it if the plastic isn't already cracked - so be careful.2a) If you have a transponder (I did! See the first and second photos) you may be in for a wild ride figuring out how to deal with it. To start, it was incredibly difficult to remove, in addition to being press fit into the top plastic shell with a little cap over it, one end had a small blob of glue holding it in place. I ended up needing to cut out the plastic around it with an x-acto knife to free it.2b) Once the chip is out, there's no way to mount it like in the OEM key, just a space where it can go. It will definitely rattle around, and if the key ever cracks open for any reason it will almost certainly be lost - meaning you won't be able to start the car. I ended up using two little blobs of hot glue, one in the bottom of the spot where the chip sits, and then one along the top edge of the remote unit. If you choose to use glue, make sure you use a glue that can be removed! I almost used epoxy but then realized I would never be able to get the remote out to change the battery! Hot glue will keep it from rattling around inside, but then can be peeled off later when it's time to change the battery.3) The plastic frame that slides over the blade fits VERY snugly. If you have any crud on the blade, especially around the bottom, it will have a hard time going down. Clean the blade with an alcohol wipe or similar to get around this. Once it's clean, note the orientation of the frame to the blade, there's a taper at the bottom that should be clear, then pull the frame down with even pressure one each side. The hole in the blade may not perfectly align with the holes in the frame. Mine still ended up going together just fine despite this, but be aware of it.4) The blade/frame piece does not float between the two halves of the housing, it mounts into the back half. There are grooves it will slide into, then click into place. Again, if you look closely, it will be intuitive.5) The halves hinge together from the back of the housing, at the key ring slot.6) Do not over-tighten the screw - if it's not going in smoothly, take it out and make sure it's aligned well. Once it's all the way in, don't "torque" it down - you'll either snap it in half or strip the threading in the housing.This is a good product at a great price and I expect it will hold up well, but take care when assembling it or you'll end up buying another one.

Es muy fácil realizar el cambio de la carcasa de tu llave que actualmente está dañada y este kit incluye todas las piezas y herramientas necesarias y un manual muy comprensible aunque en realidad ni se necesita.

Buen producto y fue compatible con mi llave

La calidad del material, incluye el desarmador muy bueno el kit

Material de buena calidad, únicamente que el plástico que se pone a la llave, una vez colocado se tiene que insertar por una ceja o guía que tiene un lado de la carcasa para luego presionar ambas carcasas y cerrar a presión.