So i have some good an some bad let's start with the good. This thing has a good feel in the hands the blade is well made and seems to come with a sharp edge not razor sharp but still good, it light and easy to use. Now the bad the blade is held with a set screw so it will loosen and the handle is uncoated and will wear fast both easy fixes so great axe for the price will buy another soon

Okay as a finished piece it’s fine. It will work, the set screw to keep the head from sliding down the handle is cheesy, just hammer the head down good and hard, that’s how your average Dane did it and it still works a thousand years later. Haft is superb, but if you aren’t going to work on it you will need a lanyard or similar to ensure it doesn’t go flying, there is no ‘pommel’ or goats foot to keep it from sliding out of sweaty handsHowever I bought it as the basis of a project. A kit. And as that it’s excellent!Forging slightly lopsided and has an ugly finish, but no worse than other much more expensive axes. Most fighting axes sold today have a completely stupid geometry for combat, but this one is actually correctly designed. The head has a good overall shape, it’s got the correct profile, which is VERY different from most of the just slightly massaged woodsman’s axes. Woodsman axes or woodcraft hatchets are too heavy, blade is a wedge which wont really penetrate, edges are too short and curved the wrong way. This axe head has a much thinner edge, swelling to enough meat at the haft end, it will sink itself to the haft during test cuts into pork sides (actually a good butchery tool if you have the skill. I’ve used it to cut up beef quarters and whole pigs into primal cuts, it cuts instead of wedging itself into the meat, applicable to combat, I would say), and it has six inches of curved edge tha can be used for draw and push cuts when choked up on the haft. For the next step I’ve decided to remove the annoying surface finish and try my hand at gold damascening the cheeks of it, so as I said, I view it as a kit.The haft provided was absolutely perfect. The grain was straight, no warp or twist, it has a teardrop cross section which helps in edge alignment. It’s a bit slender in my huge hands, but I plan to do some haft leather and such anyway, and seriously the haft is the best quality I’ve ever seen come stock on a tool or weapon. Hickory I think, although it’s harder to tell for sure than most people think. Hard, springy but not easily flexed, straight even grain. Not a single flaw in it anywhere. When I finish the current project I might grab another and do something different, I just wish they made a proper sized Dane axe.

Compro spesso da Cold Steel. Propongono prodotti medievali di buona qualità ed economici, seppur dozzinali, ma li consiglio per il rapporto qualità prezzo. Certo a volte capita che arrivi un prodotto difettoso, ma nella mia esperienza di cliente abituale ho sempre ricevuto articoli in ottime condizioni e pari alle aspettative. Quest'ascia vichinga vale i soldi che costa, è facile da modificare se lo si vuole e la consiglio a discapito di tutte le recensioni negative che ha ricevuto. Anch'io ero scettico ma quando il prodotto è arrivato sono stato soddisfatto. Una volta rimaneggiata magari oliando l'impugnatura per darle un colore più "antico" diventa perfetta per una rievocazione storica. Non sarà prodotta con un acciaio europeo, ma è molto robusta, resistente e ben bilanciata. Che siate collezionisti, rievocatori o semplicemente volete un'ascia dall'aspetto nordico/altomedioevale, questo prodotto è per voi.

The original shaft is too thin, I replaced it ,now its a nice thing.for the price, it should be good , cost me another 20 euro to replace the shaft4 stars because I'm a handy man and I could fix it. the seller delivered fast etc.

Geile Bartaxt. Hab sie nach Erhalt selbst noch etwas gepimt. Original ist der Holzstiel blank. Aber mit wenig Aufwand kann man die noch richtig gut aufwerten. Ich hab das Holz dunkler gemacht und eine Lederwicklung mit Nieten aufgebracht..E voila 🤩

If you can hang an ax, you already have what you need to bring this tough-as-nails powerhouse to life.However, before the review, I would first like to address a common (and somewhat frustrating) gripe that I've been seeing about this item and it's Cold Steel sisters over and over and over. And that gripe is this:"THIS AX SAYS AMERICAN TOMAHAWK COMPANY AND IT HAS TIAWAN STAMPED ON IT!!! SO HOW IS IT AMERICAN?! COLD STEEL DIDNT MAKE THIS! THEY TRICKED ME!!!"The answer to this review-muddling mystery is that the original "American Tomahawk Company" went out of business some time ago, and no longer exists as it's own company in the normal sense. The name, however, was was purchased by Cold Steel, and now exists as something of a sister-company.The nerve-striking American Tomahawk Company stickers we are seeing on these tomahawks and axes are, unfortunately, is a clever marketing ploy which allows Cold Steel to advertise an "American" product while still outsourcing their manufacturing to Tiawan.In short,American Tomahawk Company = Cold SteelTHE REVIEW:Though it can't be denied that Cold Steel and it's founders are (at best) an organization of questionable moral aptitude, it also can't be denied that they make exceptional cutting tools. This is especially so with their axes and tomahawks.However, this is a textbook case of "you get what you pay for". Ranging from $30 to $60+, these hand tools are extremely hard to beat for their price points. The drawback for such affordability? Though they're marketed as "combat ready", it's allong the same concept as how a brick or large rock is "combat ready"; if you swing it and make contact, the person on the hard end of it might not be too worried about details of craftsmanship or quality control.Realistically, after you chop through all of the marketing and whatnot, these are project pieces.This ax is to be considered roughly-refined stock consisting of high-quality materials that require basic craftsmanship to bring out it's true beauty and potential.It comes sharp-ish, the handle will be machine-pressed into the eye, resulting in the curled shavings I like to call "eyelashes", there will be an annoying set screw involved, and there's a chance you might get poor grain orientation, or a warped handle.But the ax head IS top-notch steel, despite being produced in Taiwan (which is very high quality steel compared to "cheap Chinese crap", another issue I could address all together). And the handle IS high-quality, well-cured hickory.If you want a ready-for-battle, true-to-the-lumberjack, razor-sharp, instantly-perfect ax, then you're in luck, all you need is $160-$250. If you want all of that in a $40-$50 price range, please, please tell me if you find it. Because this is not that item.This item is for the person who is either willing/able to bond with a new companion through some TLC and a little know-how, or who is willing/able to have it done for them.

Muy buen diseño, muy buen tamaño, peso, puede usarse en dos manos, ideal para modificar color, agregar grabados, cuero.El acero es de muy buena calidad, por error golpeé el concreto y la hoja tuvo una mini dentadura, nada grave.

First is that this is a battle axe and not a tomahawk or wood chopping axe, it's blade geometry is meant for slashing (not chopping)and stabbing against flesh, bone and thin wood(a shield) and not chopping thick branches or logs, it bites in deeply on every hit and gets stuck on almost every hit which is also why it shouldn't chop against an opponent( please don't be stupid and use this against ANYTHING alive).After reading so many reviews about the head being loose, the haft being garbage and needing to be sanded or whatever I got supplies to deal with these along with the axe. They were a waste of money as the head was secured tightly with or without the screw( which in my opinion is there only for shipping purposes), the shaft was perfectly straight and had the grain going the right way( in line with the axe blade) and had no coating on the head or shaft at all. The only modification I made was purely aesthetic, a simple darker stain and the axe looked and preformed great. The blade came with a usable edge but I still sharpened it until it was shaving sharp, which is honestly too sharp for a wood axe( it risks damaging the edge if it's too fine due to the tremendous force an axe can hit with which is far greater than a knife or even a sword) but I use this axe for martial arts training and "trick" cutting against water bottles and other human analog targets, not repeatedly against cured hard woods. All in all the axe was an absolute steal at $35.00, it had none of the problems the other reviewer's had, looks and feels great, has decent battle axe head geometry(which again is not that of a wood chopping axe),is light and well balanced and is made from quality materials that make it rugged and durable. It's worth far, far more than the asking price and I would definitely buy it again. I'm on a super tight budget and 35.00 is actually a lot of money to me for something that turns out to junk, my particular axe is a great item and not " for the money it's good", just good( I have yet to see something those axes that cost four or five or even ten times the price do that this one can't, $12.00 worth of wood stain and gun blue and it even looks as good as those ones). Not saying those other reviewer's were wrong, maybe cold steel improved their qc or maybe I just got lucky but there is no way anyone could say the one I got had any faults. As far as the head goes it's affixed to the shaft like a tomahawk, meaning the end of the shaft flares out slightly larger than the eye of the axe head and is held in place by friction. It's not like many battle axes that are held in place by a wedge being driven into the haft. I prefer it friction held as I can remove the head quickly, this makes it easier to sharpen, to replace the shaft when the time comes and to more safely store it ( have kids so that's an important issue to me). In a pinch I can also use the head as a makeshift ulu style knife, with which I can skin animals, scrape bark, hold the beard(not by the sharp part) and push on the top point with my left thumb for controlled cuts like in feather sticking and can use the sharp edge of the eye to strike sparks of a ferro rod (yes I can make a fancy bushcrafty fire with my battle axe or any tomahawk). It's not at all optimal for these things but it can do them. So for me I would never glue or permanently attach the head. A few good swings securely resets the head when I put it back on. Again I can only speak for myself but the friction method has been used for centuries so that's good enough for me. One last thing, for safety if your axes head does not sit securely enough for you then the only safe way to make it secure is by using a wedge, axes swing with incredible power and no amount of just glue, string or tape no matter how strong will hold on the head if used for any length of time, especially if striking objects, they only give a false sense of security.All these things are just my opinion so take them for what they are and make the best decision for you.