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Your cart is empty. 12V, A-CIRCUIT, 14.2 Vset
USED ON:
CHRYSLER (1988-1995)
DODGE (1987-1999)
JEEP (1991-1998)
JEEP - EUROPE (1993-1998)
PLYMOUTH (1987-1995)
CHRYSLER: 4419338, 4491986, 4557301, 5227349, 5227669, 5227672, 5227673, 5233416, 5233418, 5233449, 5233599, 5233608, 5233660, 5233672, 5233949, 5234026, 5234028, 5234029, 5234031, 5234032, 5234199, 5234201, 5234206, 5234208, 5234260, 5234374, 5234651, 5234654, 5234677, 5252539, 53008646, 53008647, 53008651, 56005684, 56005685, 56005685AB, 56007912, 56027221, 56027912, 59005685, R5233449, R5234031, R5234208, R5252539
DENSO: 121000-2430, 121000-2490, 121000-2660, 121000-2680, 121000-3000, 121000-3300, 121000-3310, 121000-3330, 121000-3340, 121000-3370, 121000-3380, 121000-3390, 121000-3400, 121000-3410, 121000-3430, 121000-3440, 121000-3450, 121000-3452, 121000-3460, 121000-3470, 121000-3530, 121000-3531, 121000-3600, 121000-4000, 121000-4010, 121000-4030, 121000-4040, 121000-4041, 121000-4050, 121000-4060, 121000-4080, 121000-4090, 121000-4100, 121000-4110, 121000-4130, 121000-4150, 121000-4151, 9712109-338
VALEO: 437751
LESTER NOS.
13184, 13185, 13220, 13245, 13256, 13280, 13301, 13302, 13304, 13305, 13306, 13307, 13308, 13309, 13310, 13312, 13313, 13341, 13353, 13354, 13442, 13453, 14869
NOTES:
Attach to SRE Frame to bypass defective regulator in vehicle PCM/ECU.
Terminal ID: Red B+, Black Ground, Green Field, Orange Ignition.
NOT to be used on Chrysler Vehicles with Electronic Fuel Injection.
dan cassidy
Reviewed in the United States on March 3, 2025
seems like voltage low. i could only get 13.8 v max out of alternator
Mitch & paige
Reviewed in the United States on August 21, 2024
Are you tired of dealing with the typical second GEN Dodge alternator issues with the computer not controlling the alternator and not charging or overcharging all here’s your solution instead of spending hundreds of dollars on a wire or alternator this fix my problem right away is go to now instead of spending hundreds of dollars on one wire alternator
Tadd Norris
Reviewed in the United States on August 16, 2024
These are cheap. Buy two and keep one on hand
Kenny M.
Reviewed in the United States on December 14, 2022
Well it worked for a day. I bought it in October, just installed it worked for a day and of course return date had come and gone. Regulator separated from bracket it is glued to.Orange positive wire with the exposed conductor was intermittently hitting the back cover of the alternator because it had separated from it’s metal bracket. This is poor man’s solid state aka regulator) it’s just switching the field wire back and forth.GOOD IDEA BAD EXECUTION, 15 CENTS OF TWO PART BONDING AGENT MADE IT GO FROM A HERO TO A ZERO. Can’t recommend this item. Buy a external regulator and save yourself the aggravation.
Samuel Cannistraci
Reviewed in the United States on March 5, 2020
Good product. Worked on a 1991 dodge w250 with the Cummins. Directions are ok however I did get one wire wrong and had to go back and change it. Charges at 13.8v-14.0v
Michael Haviland
Reviewed in the United States on April 20, 2020
This worked perfectly to convert my denso alternator on my 24v Cummins to internal control. Only had to mod one small part of the sheet metal cover on the back of the alternator to make it fit. Regulates to 13.8-14.1 perfectly.
Lew
Reviewed in the United States on July 6, 2019
I purchased this item to resolve a charging issue caused by a faulty regulator in the control module which was not signaling the alternator to charge. Installed properly in a new alternator and problem solved. Works great. My advice; contact MotorCity Reman if you have any questions about the installation.
Tyrone Shulaces
Reviewed in the United States on June 23, 2019
Alternator not charging after replacement? Chrysler, in their infinite wisdom, decided to put the alternator regulator control in the PCM (Powertrain Control Module / engine computer). This part of the computer, can be damaged from certain alternator failures . This is a common problem so they came up with this conversion kit. Otherwise you would have to replace the entire engine computer, which is not cheap. The alternator works by varying the ground side of the alternator brushes. The more ground applied, the more current that is allowed to flow, the higher the alternator output. There were no instructions given on how this is supposed to be installed in the description. You have to remove the rear cover of the alternator and attach it to the field terminals. They give you just enough wiring to go to the correct terminals, but not too long and make it hard for the cover to fit back on. I gave it 4 stars because I had to grind of about a 1/4 inch of the metal tab on the lower right hand corner. This was needed because it would not sit flush when bolted down. See the attached picture. When using a bench grinder, the metal backing plate heated up. This caused the glued regulator to fall off. It does not ground through this plate and is not used as a heat sink. I couldn't find any epoxy or Super Glue so I used some of my wife's nail glue. I also glued it on about a 1/4 inch to the left so it would not interfere with the alternator notch. The dots in the metal backing plate is where it was glued before. See picture. Nick, from a previous review, said his conversion kit did not work. In the instructions, it states to make sure you have power to the orange wire with the key on. The instructions do not tell you but, you have to remove the field winding wire harness from the alternator when checking this. See picture. Otherwise you will have power at both terminals because of the power flow path. He may just have needed to reverse the two orange and green wires and it would have started working. The instruction say not to be used on fuel injected vehicles. It will work but I have a check engine light. Code 41 charging system circuit not responding to control signal, alternator field circuit not switching properly. This is because it is being done by the internal regulator now. I added the picture for the instructions.
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