Took a lot of pressure to install the pin that kept the holder in place. Wound up shattering the window.Don’t get this unless you know what you are doing.

when the product arrived the holes for the pin hadn't been cut

Perfect fit

Todo bien

You really need to replace this when you do the window regulator... be warned!!!It is a pain to get the old one out and snapping the new one in was a challenge too!I found lowering the window all the way down was the trick to getting it to snap in the track.

Very expensive piece of plastic. No instructions, do what you want... Since I am an experienced professional industrial mechanic, installing this thing was no problem for me. I had to finish the pin, grind the hole a bit, so the installation took me a few minutes. Otherwise, I would have simply broken this pin or the part itself would have cracked. As a result, the glass moves completely smoothly and much quieter than when the car was new. I wouldn't recommend a person without significant experience to attempt this job. It's not the type of job just taken out of the box and snapped on.

We installed this pretty easily. It is doing the job. I hope it is better than the one Fiat makes. I was advised to spray the window track wit silicone lubricant to prevent this from wearing out again. Hopefully this will be the last one I install.

Houston, we have a problem........Given that FIAT owns Ferrari & provides engines to other Formula 1 racing teams, I think maybe they had the "B" team doing window regulator design. Don't get me wrong, I love my 2013 Fiat 500 Abarth. It's more fun than a barrel of monkeys and is like driving a street-legal little race car. And it gets 35 mpg on the highway.However. I am now on my 4th window regulator replacement. At this point I have decided to do this sort of work myself.If you read the reviews, you will discover that the window regulator is not the issue - but the itsy-bitsy guide clip is the issue.This guide clip lives on the upper, rearmost edge of the door windows. To keep the window regulator simple and lightweight, the regulator only supports the window at the center of the bottom of the window. Now, after replacing my regulator, I discovered that my clip was broken, and the regulator then causes the window to cock in the channels at the front and rear of the window, causing it to jam - and then destroy the part of the regulator where it attaches to the window. So, the failure of a little $8 plastic part destroys the $50 regulator, and puts your car out of commission until you can get it into the shop, and replace the flawed clip and regulator with another flawed clip and regulator. I'm a skilled mechanic, and I could not get the clip installed.My replacement is not going to be so flawed. Here's the deal. I noted in more than one of the reviews that folks had difficulties installing the clip. One person explained that he drilled out the holes in the clip where the pin fits ever so slightly. That's a good idea, and one that I am doing as well. I'm a skilled mechanic, and I could not get the clip installed!Now, in thinking this over, I am realizing that this whole power window system depends on a little 1/8 inch diameter plastic pin that goes through the plastic clip and through a small hole along the edge of the window. I note that the handles on my shower doors are extruded aluminum with a slot in the extrusion that matches the width of the glass. These are held on with glue. I have used E6000 glue to re-install one or two of these, so.......... Why not glue the cheapo plastic clip to the window glass? Hmm, no reason not to, so that is my plan. Film at 11.OK, update. First of all, I note that a lot of the reviewers had trouble installing these guys. I think that is for two reasons primarily. The first is that I suspect that they have not pulled the rubber track out of the black “B pillar outer panel” (as Mopar calls it). One You Tube video shows a guy doing it that way, but he struggles mightily. I discovered that my old broken clip was still in the channel and that other You Tube videos show doing this. They actually also show removing the panel, but after I was done I concluded that it’s OK to leave the panel where it is. If you do decide to remove the panel you will first need to pull out the rubber channel, and then use a #20 Torx but to remove the screws.Now, pulling out the rubber channel is a challenge. It’s hard to pull out, and it’s near impossible to get grip on it. As you can see in the attached photos, I grabbed it by its inner edge of the U-shaped channel with a needle-nose, vise -grip pliers. Once loose you can fish out an old plastic clip, and it gives you a bit more room to install the clip on the glass.What I discovered about the clip is that the little plastic pin is a PITA to install. It really is too tight a fit. Certainly it wants to not go in straight, it’s hard to line up the hole in the glass and many have apparently damaged the pin and even the clip in trying to do this.My solution is twofold. First, I take a 1/8 drill, and holding it with my fingers I drill out the 3 mm hole. 1/8 inch is just a little bit larger than 3 mm (it’s 3.175 mm), so it is still a snug fit, but doable. Next is I use glue to attach the clip. E6000 does not set totally hard, so I decided instead to use Loc-Tite gel superglue. This super glue sets up slowly, so it gives you a little time to get everything installed. I used a Q-tip to apply the superglue along both sides of the glass where the clip will be installed. Next I used a scribe (a long, tapered steel tool) to shove into the hole in the clip and the glass to perfectly position the clip. Then I used a small c-clamp to hold the clip in it’s perfect position at one end. I then used a larger c-clamp that would fit over the lip on the clip to push the pin into place, tightening the clamp ever so slowly and carefully. Once the glue has set, it’s a good idea to take a box cutter and shave off the bits of the pin that stick out on either side of the clip. This makes sure there’s no additional friction when running the window up and down.And about now you’ll be wondering how it is that your “typical” ham-fisted dealer mechanic can do this work. I don’t think they can, which is I believe why these things are known to fail. With the glue and the pin, my new clip is good until the end of time…. Again, I am now on my 4th replacement of the window regulator system!!!!Re-assembly. This part is a little tricky, but not too bad. First you lower the window almost all the way down. Now you grab the rubber (but not so very flexible) window channel, and feed it down over the top edge of the window and into the bottom part of the B-pillar outer panel (which you have re-installed already if you removed it). Probably using a bunch of silicone spray lube will help this process. As the bottom of the rubber channel goes into place, then the rest of it can be fit back into the slot in the B-pillar outer panel.At this point you can test running the window up and down. Do this carefully, as you may not have everything installed just right and you don’t want the powerful window regulator motor to break a bunch of plastic parts (which is how my regulator was destroyed when my last clip came loose from the window.No crunching noise and smooth operation means you have succeeded. Congratulations. You is now an expert Fiat 500 window regulator system mechanic!!!!!!

This product was every bit as good as the factory product. It fit perfectly. Fiat could not provide this unit. When I compared the two side by side the product delivered was better than the original! It was delivered quickly packaged properly if I have to replace a Fiat part again at our shop. I will definitely be searching these guys first