Rottefella makes the bindings under their own name, and for Rossignol and Fischer. They're manual NNN classic bindings for skis with NIS plates ;-) Flip open the lock, put the boot toe in and flip it closed. Has wide tabs on each side that allow gripping it easily while wearing gloves. They slid onto my Rossignol ski NIS plates easily. It's easy using the tool that comes with the bindings once you've done it a couple times. The NIS concept makes putting bindings on Noridc classic or skate skis easy, versus having to pay someone to drill the skis and mount the bindings. Also allows repositioning them fore/aft if desired, and to move the rear plate if loaning the skis to someone with different size boots. I don't recommend using the NIS feature to move one set of bindings between different skis frequently though; bindings are inexpensive enough compared to the cost of the skis that you can (should) put bindings on each pair of skis. It does allow removing the bindings and reusing them on new skis when replacing the old ones as bindings shouldn't wear out as quickly as the skis. Was very glad to be able to find these manual classic NIS (NNN) bindings at a very good price on Amazon. I've used "auto" bindings with the push button release on a couple pairs of classic skis and have always preferred the manual bindings on my skate and BC skis. Doesn't bother me to have to get down to operate the lock with my hand and I have less problems with snow icing up in the locking mechanism when I'm trying to get my boot locked into the bindings.These are the mid-level bindings. The much more expensive top end "race" bindings do not do anything more than these do but subtract a few grams of weight and the heel part looks slightly narrower. I suppose if you're into highly competitive racing at the top level of the sport with top end racing skis that might be important. I use the lavatory before skiing and typically lose many more grams than the difference between these and the expensive race bindings.