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AUTOSAVER88 Catalytic Converter Compatible with 2004-2009 Prius 1.5L Direct-Fit (EPA Compliant)

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$100.76

$ 42 .99 $42.99

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1.Style:For 97-01 Camry


  • ATTENTION: This item doesn't ship to California & Colorado & New York, please confirm before purchase.
  • VEHICLE FITMENT: Compatible with 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 Prius 1.5L, please check the product description page below for details.
  • DIRECT FIT DESIGN: The flange is precisely-built to meet standard OE specifications without extra modification, and all installation holes are firmly and exactly fixed with attached gaskets and hardware.
  • HIGHER EFFICIENCY: Internal ceramic substrates contain ample metal catalysts and offer a larger surface area to fully react; Adopts heavy-duty T409 stainless steel shell that highly resists heat, rust, and corrosion for longer service life, no worry about bending or melting.
  • EPA CERTIFIED: EPA Federal Standard Certificated, all AUTOSAVER88's catalytic converters are stamped with an exclusive EPA number on the shell.(NOTE: Professional installation would be highly recommended)



Product Description

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VEHICLE FITMENT

  • Compatible with 2004 Prius 1.5L
  • Compatible with 2005 Prius 1.5L
  • Compatible with 2006 Prius 1.5L
  • Compatible with 2007 Prius 1.5L
  • Compatible with 2008 Prius 1.5L
  • Compatible with 2009 Prius 1.5L

FEATURES

  • Long term reliability
  • Large total substrate size
  • Increase precious metal loading

Important Product Information

  • For use with Federal Emissions Models
  • Not Ship to California, Colorado and New York

The Advantages of AUTOSAVER88 Catalytic Converter

1

More Efficient Purification

Enlarged honeycomb ceramic substrates will fully react with ample catalysts for a higher efficiency & green emission.

2

Stainless Steel Shell

Heavy-duty stainless steel materials feature strong corrosion resistance and withstand high temperature.

4

Direct-fit Replacement

The OE-style catalytic converter is easy to install with bolts. It also passes EPA certification for reliability.

2

Brian Jones
Reviewed in the United States on December 2, 2024
This is obviously a budget buy when it comes to a complete catalytic converter/exhaust manifold, but it only lasted 4 months before completely cracking in half.Fit up was good, and the welds weren't bad, but the base metal of the tubing itself failed. Not exactly the type of part that you want to swap out every four months.
Yvon Gilbert
Reviewed in Canada on June 16, 2023
installation presque parfaite les bolts d'assemblage sont trop courtes petite perte de temps mineur
Naz
Reviewed in Australia on June 15, 2023
HiDont buy this product. Less than 1 year after its installed, the part broke down. the Cat convertor is now rattling as something inside must have broken off.
normand turcotte
Reviewed in Canada on August 14, 2022
fit numero un
Jason
Reviewed in Canada on May 12, 2022
Fits good. But needs better gasket.For a 22 year old car this will do. Unless you want to buy a expensive one and pimp out your ride but I don't think your not being your camry to a car show lol
Roxy
Reviewed in Canada on December 13, 2022
Belle qualité de produit , l'image est bien représentative !Pour un Toyota Corolla 2006 le fit a été parfait !
Master Technician
Reviewed in the United States on October 22, 2022
This fit a 2008 Toyota Prius perfect. It goes to the first weld before the resonator. So if the thieves left you 2” before that weld this will slip over it and bingo-banging-bob’s your uncle and you are done. If yours is cut closer to that weld you may need it welded. I highly recommend replacing the 1-3/4” pipe clamp with a $12 auto parts stainless clamp. The piping is all stainless, the included clamp fits but is not strong enough to compress the stainless for good compression. Mine stripped in 1-2 seconds and was useless. Great news for $12 you can get a stainless never rust and it will make an airtight connection.Remove rubber grommets from car or resonator not both. Lower resonator a few inches. Slide front of cat forward above exhaust flange and slide cat back and over cut resonator inlet pipe. Wiggle wiggle wiggle until it is close to the weld. Make sure the donut is on the front flange. The Toyota is better than the new so if it is still there reuse it. Slide cat into position and install both bolts no springs and tighten fully with some anti seize on the threads. Now remove one and re-install with spring. Then remove the other and reinstall with spring, push , push push, turn, turn, turn it’s not easy unless you have an impact gun. The springs are brand new and strong, kind of what you really want. The O2 sensor goes through the passenger floor and cost about $55 dollars, get the Denso, GET THE DENSO, it has to have a grommet molded around the wires so the passenger floor doesn’t get wet. The Denso works and will not set a code and will seal the floor. The Denso with the connector unless you are a soldering wonder kid. Best of luck. This is a good Catalytic Converter setup.
Ken Henningsen
Reviewed in the United States on September 1, 2020
Executive Summary: I’m delighted to report that the Autosaver88 cat assembly (from China, of course) was exactly as advertised; it was well-packed, arrived promptly and undamaged, and replaced the stolen cats on a 2007 Prius perfectly. I have no way to assess any change in emissions (Minnesota did away with auto inspections a couple of decades ago), but it’s EPA-certified and I presume it has restored the Prius’s excellent clean-air performance. In any case, the fault code cleared (after I replaced the stolen rear O2 sensor as well), and the Prius is happy and quiet again. Highly recommended. (Unfortunately, I see that this item isn't currently available now, so this long review may be for naught.)I suspect most everybody is here under similar circumstances; for more of the story and some advice, read on.The Details: The other night, some lowlife scumbags stole the two catalytic converters (and their attached rear O2 sensor) from my grandson’s 2007 Prius while it was parked on the street in front of his house, adding insult to injury by damaging the corner of his car while carelessly jacking it up to unbolt and cut out the cats. For a few bucks on the illicit precious-metals market they cost him several day’s work as an Uber Eats driver and the cost and inconvenience of replacing the cats.Fortunately, I’m a decent “shade-tree” mechanic, and I offered to help him replace the cats. Upon contacting a couple of Toyota dealers I discovered that an OEM replacement includes as a single unit the two cats, the resonator, and all piping from exhaust-header flange to the muffler flange, and costs upwards of $2,000. Notwithstanding the fact that the car itself isn’t worth much more than that, due to this theft epidemic both dealers were backordered for weeks and each had several cars on their lots awaiting cats. So it was time to look elsewhere. (Pity California owners; state law requires OEM, and it’s an inspection item.)I started on eBay, and found direct-fit replacement cats (from exhaust flange to resonator) for as little as $120. However, I watched a YouTube video about the possible pitfalls of buying one of these (poor weld quality, resulting in lousy fit at the header flange—and exhaust leaks). So I decided to try Amazon, where I felt I’d have a bit more recourse. To my surprise, I found only two for the Prius—this one and a Walker-branded unit costing $100 more. Since they seemed to have more or less identical specs and certifications, I crossed my fingers and decided to save the $100. Fortunately, it turned out to be a good decision.Installation Advice: I had a few bad moments after putting a caliper on both the stub of the cut-off pipe behind the original cats and the matching pipe that I presumed was sized to fit inside that stub; they seemed to be about the same size. I thus thought I was in for some welding, so I held the new assembly in place to make matching marks to get the correct fit angle and length. I then removed the resonator and pipe assembly in front of the muffler to be able to weld the whole circumference (very difficult to do with it in place and overhead). This involved removing two rubber suspension “doughnuts,” two stubborn bolts in the muffler flange that finally yielded to some penetrant and my impact wrench, and more easily unbolting a chassis-stiffening plate below the pipe.Once I had both assemblies out on the floor, I discovered that the new rear pipe actually fits snugly _over_ the old stub, and extends back to the pipe weld at the resonator. I was thus able to slide the two together, match up my angle marks, and clamp them together with the included clamp. (I’m not sure it was necessary due to the snug fit, but I coated both pipes with muffler cement before assembly, just to make sure there were no leaks.) Note: I was able to do this because the thieves “considerately” left me about a 1 1/2” stub in front of the resonator; they easily could have cut it right at the resonator, which would make welding the only option.Reassembly was the reverse of removal, and went pretty smoothly except for one of the new header flange bolt/springs; I had trouble compressing the spring enough to engage the first threads on the bolt. A quick trip to my vise to slightly pre-compress that spring solved that problem. BTW, if I had it to do over again (and knew about the pipe fit in advance), I might not have removed the resonator/pipe assembly from the car. I think just removing the four rubber hangarsthat suspend the whole exhaust system would provide enough “play” to make room for inserting the old pipe into the back of the new cat assembly. However, that fit was tight enough that I had to twist the two assemblies back and forth to get them fully engaged; that might be difficult without removing the resonator/pipe assembly.As alluded above, you’ll also need a new O2 sensor, as the thieves simply cut the wire on the old one and steal it as well. There are a bunch of these on Amazon for a wide range of prices; I picked one for $27 that reviewed well. BTW, this sensor goes through a grommet in a large hole in the exhaust-pipe tunnel and plugs into a connector under the passenger-side tunnel carpet. Look for a video on YouTube by “HadesOmega” that shows how to access this (in the last of a 3-part series on Prius cat replacement).Theft Prevention Advice: I’m betting you’re here because you had your cat stolen (they normally last the life of the car), so protect your new cat; these cars are the favorite targets of cat thieves, and many Prius replacement cats have been ripped off as well. Not only do Prius cats contain more platinum, rhodium, and palladium than most other vehicles, those of this generation are relatively easy to steal quickly. All it takes is a lightweight floor jack, a 14mm socket wrench with an extension (for the two header bolts), and a pipe cutter or battery sawzall (to cut the pipe in front of the resonator). There are a number of security-camera videos showing it being done in a minute or two.I won’t go into detail on protection schemes; a search on “catalytic converter protection” will turn up several solutions. These range from kludgy-looking clamp/cable devices that make cutting more difficult, to underbody plates that entirely block access to the cats (HadesOmega has videos on installing one of these), to alarms of various sorts. All seemed to fall into the $150-200 price range. Being handy (and cheap, after already spending about $200) I decided to fabricate my own; I chose the plate approach, using a sheet of 1/8” aluminum. It’s not as fancy or as secure as the commercial version(s), but it looks formidable enough that it should convince thieves to move on to another victim (or at least require them to spend a lot more time and make a lot more noise than is probably safe).You have my condolences; I hope this helps.
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