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Park Tool Bicycle Spoke Wrench Set - SW-0, SW-1, SW-2, & SW-3

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$33.96

$ 17 .99 $17.99

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About this item

  • Professional quality, precision-sized bicycle spoke wrenches
  • Hardened and nickel-plated for long life
  • Made in the USA
  • Color-coded vinyl-dipped handles
  • The 4 most common bicycle spoke nipple sizes



Product Description

Park Tool SW-0, SW-1, SW-2, & SW-3 Spoke Wrenches in use

PARK TOOL BICYCLE SPOKE WRENCHES

Our iconic spoke wrenches have been a mainstay of our product lineup since we introduced them over 40 years ago. With their simple design and professional quality, they're still the favorite of bike mechanics around the world. Each Park Tool SW-0, SW-1, SW-2 & SW-3 is made in the USA, and is precision-stamped, hardened and nickel plated for long service. Park Tool Spoke Wrenches are vinyl-dipped in one of four colors indicating the size at a glance.

  • The SW-0 is sized for 3.23mm (0.127") nipples - typically found on higher-end bikes.
  • The SW-1 is sized for 3.30mm (0.130") nipples - typically found on older American bicycles including Union and Torrington spokes.
  • The SW-2 is sized for 3.45mm (0.136") nipples - typically found on department store bikes and low-to-midrange bikes.
  • The SW-3 is sized for 3.96mm (0.156") nipples - typically found on some Shimano wheels, hub drive e-bikes, and "heavy duty" bikes with heavy gauge spokes.

ALWAYS TRUE

There are many different sizes and even shapes of spoke nipples, and having the correct wrench is important. Luckily, Park Tool offers a full range of spoke wrenches in virtually every size found on a bike. Here's how to determine the correct wrench for your bike, and a selection of tools we make to help you stay true:

Incorrectly-fitting spoke wrench on a bicycle spoke nipple

SIZE MATTERS

Most square nipple sizes are within 1mm of each other, so a wrench that is too big may still seem like it fits. However, nipples are typically made of brass or aluminum. Both are a relatively soft material and can be easily damaged by the wrong sized spoke wrench (or poor-fitting off-brand wrenches).

Vernier calipers measuring the wrench flats of a bicycle wheel spoke nipple

MEASURE TWICE

The best method to determine the correct spoke wrench size is to use a caliper and measure the nipple across the wrench flats. Don't worry about the size of the spokes themselves - spoke gauge is not correlated to nipple size.

Park Tool SW-0 & SW-2

TOP TWO

For square nipples, there are several size possibilities, but the two most common are nominally 3.2mm (Park Tool SW-0) and 3.5mm (SW-2) when measured across the flats. Use the smallest wrench that fits on the nipple.

TRUSTED SINCE 1963

Since our origins in the back of a bike shop in 1963, it has been our sole mission to design and manufacture high-quality tools that empower mechanics and riders of all skill levels to service their bicycles. As with our other 500+ tools, our wheel truing tools are a product of our decades of experience and expertise in the industry, in the shop and on the trail.


The Professor
Reviewed in the United States on March 13, 2025
Good quality and work great. These are up to the high standard that I've come to expect from Park Tools. I haven't found anything better in bicycle tools.
Gene Morin
Reviewed in the United States on February 6, 2025
Adjust spokes on a bicycle very nicely
NeverB4
Reviewed in the United States on January 2, 2025
These are the best spoke wrench tools I've ever used. I grew up working in a bike shop so I knew exactly what I needed to buy when I started riding again five months ago. These spoke wrenches are very ergonomic, fit extremely well, and will last for years. Great product.
Austin James
Reviewed in the United States on September 14, 2024
This is a great little spoke wrench set. The U-handle has a nice offset to get around the spoke, and they work perfectly. Best of all, they are Made in the USA. We need more of that these days.
J.D.Engineering
Reviewed in the United States on December 13, 2024
Relaced four wheels. This really sped up process and made wheels easy to true.
Big Deahl
Reviewed in the United States on November 26, 2024
You really have to be careful once you get to higher tension on the spokes as you can easily round off corners.So why did I buy it and what do I use it for:I use it when I am doing initial tension just before working tension is applied, from there I usually use a DT Swiss key instead.Would I buy again, yeah but know what it's for and be careful!!
Keith Crossgrove
Reviewed in Canada on November 12, 2024
Best MTB tool company high price tag.
Marx Opinion
Reviewed in the United States on October 29, 2024
You get what you pay for. Had a cheaper set of spoke wrenches and the round out to easy - and 1 does not even fit the correct size. Decided to invest in quality - enough said. Gets the job done.
SC
Reviewed in the United States on June 21, 2021
I've been on a journey with a 2003 GT Palomar. I didn't care for how it rode, fit or shifted when it was given to me new in 2004. So after a few short rides it was put in shed.When it saw daylight for a ride in 2013, it was hit on the rear wheel by a car. The wheel was bent so badly that I was barely able to limp it home with the V-brakes removed and pads released. Then it went back in the shed.In 2021, it saw daylight again as I was going to junk it. The cost of a wheel straightening, or new wheel didn't seem justified on a 20 year old $230 bicycle. But, it had less than 100 miles on it and seemed to be comparable with some new bikes in the $500 and up range. So I cleaned it up and figured I'd try to fix and sell it.Although I've been around bicycles for 40 plus years and have completely disassembled them to individual bearings and races... I never had the nerve to tackle wheel truing. But, after watching a few video's on You Tube I figured I'd try to save the wheel myself.As I did not know what spoke size the wheel had, I purchased this set. Turns out the Red wrench fit the bent wheel spokes of the Alex Y2000 and the Green wrench fits my 2006 Cannondale. So, it was win/win.The wrenches are sturdy, comfortable and easily adjust spoke tension.If you are a truing newbie like me and choose to take on a bent rim, watch some videos (Park Tool has excellent ones).If the rim is actually bent like mine was, I loosened all the spokes on both sides of the rim and tried to correct the the bend (as much as I could) with pressure.I supported my wheel on two small sections of 2x4, leaving the high spots unsupported. Then pushed down on the high spots, like doing a pushup and even stepping on them, to straighten the rim as best as I could.Then I gradually used the spoke tension to dial it in.Be advised, it will take time and you will probably screw up as I did.I made two mistakes.First, I pulled the wheel "off center" and could not lock my v-brakes back in.It turns out, that although the wheel was straighter than it had ever been, it was 1/4" or so too far to the right and off center. I solved this by gradually loosening the right spokes and tightening the left spokes until it was centered.Then, on my test ride I then learned that while the wheel was straight, I had made it "out of round" which caused the bike to ride like it had an out of balance tire on a car.After watching some more specific wheel straightening video's and using zip ties on the the bike frame and forks as guides, both wheels are now straighter and spin better than when new.Take your time and be prepared to make a few mistakes.Just know that when you get your wheels rolling truer than they ever were, it's a great feeling.The bonus is you probably won't have to do it again, but if you do, you will know how.As for my GT, it got a full tear down and service before I was going to put it up for sale. I also watched video's to learn how to adjust and tune the V-brakes and indexed shifting.On the test ride, it was smoother and quieter and performed better than anything I'd ever ridden before.At that point, I figured no one would pay what I felt this 20 year old, 26" wheel bike was worth. The bike also had a Chrome Moly frame that I prefer over the ride of the newer aluminum frames.So, I decided to try to try to make it fit me instead of selling it. This led to upgrades.In the end, the Old GT got a new seat post, shifters, brake pads, handlebars, hand grips, heavy duty wheels with cassette giving better gearing for the way I ride, as well as pedals, Rock Shox Fork and Shimano Crankset. I've got more in it than it would be worth to probably anyone but me.But, in the end, it cost less than if I bought a new bike, then tried to make it fit and ride like the GT does now.After I got into some sort of riding shape, the bike is built for the way I ride and the roads I ride. These include relatively easy off road trails as well as rolling hill back roads.When the GT goes out, I can easily do 10-30 plus mile road/trail rides smoothly and comfortably. At 55, I will give out before it ever will.If you are thinking about giving up your old bike for a new one, you may want to watch some video's before you head to the bike shop with your money.This one was like new and headed to the junk pile because I didn't care for how it fit or rode.After research, repairs, tuning and fitting, (that I would have had to do, or have done with a new bike) this old GT will be with me for rides, until I can no longer do so.Hope this helps and Ride Safe.
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