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Your cart is empty.The lateral link bolt frequently seizes or breaks when removing the rear suspension knuckle to service a wheel bearing. Our Lateral Link Bolt is a direct replacement for the hard-to-find original equipment part, allowing for a safe, complete repair.
Rooster
Reviewed in the United States on January 27, 2025
Doesn't fit W body applications, 1.5 inch overlength
Jollyspinach
Reviewed in the United States on September 11, 2024
If you need to replace a rear wheel bearing just go ahead and order this along with a new trailing arm. Chances are your gonna have to destroy the bolt to get it out of the rear knuckle and if your lucky to get it out then it will also be seized in the bushing.
turbo54
Reviewed in the United States on July 16, 2024
This part fits perfect.I bought it because my 1995 lived in Michigan for the first 20 years of its life. It's rusty. I bumped a curb and bent my lateral links and when I added the link to my cart, Amazon suggested I buy this bolt too.But, I ended up getting the original bolt off with a bit of finagling. Here's how:The nut came off no problem. I doused the bolt with PB blaster; the exposed area of the bolt does a nice job holding the penetrating oil. I put my impact on the bolt head to try to "unscrew" the bolt from the upright/knuckle. It slightly budged the bolt. I reversed the impact and the bolt moved a little again. Forward/reverse/forward/reverse would move the bolt back and forth *slightly*.Added heat. I only used a propane torch. Carefully aimed at the *knuckle*, both front and rear - keeping heat off the parking brake cable and CV boot. This process will wreck the bushings in your lateral links. Not a problem for me considering mine were bent and were the reason I was taking it apart!I put heat, alternatingly, on the front/back of the knuckle for about 15 minutes. Then a breaker bar got the bolt turning. A few hits from a baby sledge on the tip of the bolt (make sure the nut is partially installed so you don't mushroom the threads) got the bolt to begin sliding out. A prybar between bolt head and lateral link + spinning bolt with impact = bolt came out.I could of re-used the OEM bolt, but it'd been months since I bought this one and was too late to return.
STPR-radio
Reviewed in the United States on November 9, 2024
Will update as to longevity. Seems similar to OEM quality.
Alvaro Vitali
Reviewed in the United States on August 26, 2023
If you own a Subaru you know about the Jesus bolts (they're such a pain) . This part fits perfectly just like the OEM and it's only 1/3 of the price. Very satisfied with my purchase
Robert F.
Reviewed in the United States on November 12, 2023
If you are confronted with a bearing problem and need to take the hub out, that could be a proiblem as they, over time, get rusted. You only can get the hub out by cutting the bolt. This bolt is the perfect replacement and has a very good price. Do not forget to grease it, otherwise the next time it is rusted stuck again! Good buy!
DowPeter
Reviewed in the United States on October 24, 2023
Product fit perfectly! I had to use a tile blade on a Sawsall to cut the 22 yo old bolt out. However, be careful not to bash threads. Once installed, I needed to file end threads to start nut. Once I could start that first thread, the bolt was installed.
David G
Reviewed in Canada on January 18, 2023
Can't beat the price for something that is at least double from the dealer. It's just a large bolt.
Maggy McPaul
Reviewed in the United States on May 13, 2022
-I took it upon myself to replace the rear hub/knuckle due to a noisy wheel bearing.-I'd bought a couple of lower mileage used knuckles off Ebait and had them ready to swap in. Replacing the bearing is an absolute pain, takes tools and skills I don't have, and is $300+ at a shop.-I got everything else removed and started - optimistically - to remove the lateral link bolt.-The nut came off and I was like, 'cool', but that was the last hopeful moment for the next 24 hours.-The bolt would not budge. I took after it with my impact and nothing. Put the nut back on the other end and hit it w/a 10# sledge - NOTHING. So I gave up.-Back at it. I grabbed a propane torch and heated it up once, twice, three times, each followed by using the impact and the sledge. NOTHING that thing ain't moving.So, most peeps resort to the death saw (reciprocating / sawzall) and I considered it, but I was still not excited about getting bolt remnants out of their holes. So I put it back together (that rear parking/disc brake setup is worth a punch in the face to its engineer) and will consider other options, which include:- Taking it to a shop and see if they'll install my used parts or just fix the bearing.- Buy new 'front' and 'rear' lateral arms to replace the whole section w/out needing to cut the bolt out. (Dorman parts are cheap or find used?)- Drive it with a louder volume setting.Summary: Got the old hub out w/the two lateral links attached w/out too much grief. Reinstalled w/the used hub / knuckle and for the 1st time since I've had the car back, i have NO BEARING NOISE. Wowsa, it was louder than I thought....So, just buy the whole hub if the bolt won't come out. Provided you're willing to install a used part. Note that most Subarus from '90-'99 used this same rear hub setup. The only distinctions are whether it has ABS AND whether it's disc or drum rear brakes. AND DO ONE SIDE AT A TIME so you can see how the rear parking brake installs....Subaru's engineers really dropped the ball on that setup.
Alain Leboeuf
Reviewed in Canada on June 13, 2019
Parfait
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